THE FINAL CHAPTER - MARS AND VENUS GET TO GSTAAD (TOGETHER!)

I have a shocking announcement - today, Anthony is taking me shopping - in Gstaad!  How glamorous!  Not only is Anthony someone who "never knowingly gets wet" he is also prone to going into something akin to anaphylactic shock at the mere suggestion of shopping.  So what might not come as such a surprise is that to get to Gstaad we will have to walk - about 9 kms in fact, and climb 750 metres - maybe not so glamorous after all!

Certainly it is no surprise that the start to our day should entail a fairly swift ascent, through pasture land to start with, and then climbing with ever increasing ferocity through a forest to reach the first of our destinations, the Chrine Pass at 1,659 metres.  We had treated ourselves to a later start than usual this morning, heading off just after 9.00 am, and already by the time we reached the Pass the intensity of the sun was such that after admiring the view from the Pass towards the Les Diablerets massif, we were very happy to meld back into the cool of the shaded forest to make our way to the foot of the Hohi Wilspile ridge.  This ridge, with its panoramic views in all directions, would lead us all the way to the Hohi Wispile Pass and on down to the cable car which would sweep us off our feet and into Gstaad.

The sweat and toil of our initial climb is rewarded with wonderful panoramic views

Although the beginning of each day has a now familiar pattern, the end result is always varied, and today the walk along the ridge was a mostly gentle ascent across open grassland, with the occasional sharp pull uphill, but with wonderful 360 degree views.  The Gummfluh, Les Diablerets and the Wildhorn stood proudly in the morning sun, with the lush Lauenental Valley from where we had ascended laid out like a tiny Toy Town beneath.  All was ant-like industry, as the business of the hay carting which we had witnessed on our arrival in Lauenen yesterday was in full swing again today, the strength of the September sunshine an absolute blessing for the hay makers.

All go in the valley below as hay-carting is in full swing

Far from the secluded Passes of some of our previous days, the Hohi Wispile was the centre of attention for walkers, paragliders, day trippers and dog walkers.  The cable car connection from Gstaad makes it an ideal destination from which to enjoy the wonderful views, and the superb weather had brought people out to enjoy the scenery in optimum conditions.  After pausing to enjoy the views (and dry our shirts!), we ambled down to the restaurant at the cable car station and toasted the end of the last hike of our trip with a well earned glass of Prosecco.

The Hohi Wispile Pass at 1,939 metres provided spectacular 360 degree views in optimum conditions

Now, I know you are wondering about the shopping - on arriving in Gstaad there was Louis Vuitton, Chopard, Prada - it was hard to know where to start, so instead we settled for a very good lunch!

Cows are venerated in this region - even in relatively ritzy Gstaad.  I love this charming bronze in the Gstaad high street

Over lunch we reviewed what has been a hugely successful holiday.  Switzerland has exceeded both our expectations in terms of sheer natural beauty, and the hiking experience is something that we both have really enjoyed.  We estimated we have covered somewhere in the vicinity of 180 kms in twelve days hiking, and we have been remarkably lucky with the weather.  I learnt today that Switzerland has 72,000 kms of roads, and 60,000 kms of waymarked hiking trails, so it should come as no surprise that this country is incredibly well geared towards the hiking experience.  What has been particularly pleasurable is that apart from Grindelwald, (undoubtedly an international mecca with its unsurpassed views of the Eiger), our co-travellers in our hotels and on our hikes have been 95% Swiss.  Hiking is for all ages, stages, shapes and sizes, and the infrastructure to allow it to happen across this staggeringly beautiful country is immaculately organised.  That said, I read the there are approximately 9,000 hiking accidents every year in Switzerland, 40 of which end as fatalities.  Be beguiled by the lush pastures, the chiming bells of the cows and the picture postcard beauty, but make no mistake, show disregard for the mountain code and the price is high.

Now, what of Mars and Venus - well the bottles of whiskey and gin stood us in extremely good stead, conveniently lasting until our penultimate evening, and always a welcome treat at the end of each day.  The Swiss franc to pound exchange rate is awful, and alcohol is frighteningly expensive (a very ordinary bottle of Swiss red is Cf 40 - around £28!).  The goose-poo green trekking trousers are now thankfully resting in peace, having been abandoned in a wastepaper bin in Adelboden, (unworn)!  The selection of sleeveless shirts which I hurriedly packed last minute and which caused Anthony so much mirth as the snow fell in Griesalp, have come into their own with temperatures hovering near the twenties for the last week. The first aid kit has been remarkably (and thankfully) under utilised, with our boots being our saviours, and the endless pampering with anti-blister spray and the drying off of feet and socks at every opportunity paying off without a single blister in twelve days.

Perhaps the most dangerous thing we will take away with us from Switzerland is a tiny seed of an idea which was planted at Griesalp as we passed away the evening in the Golderli mountain hut with our two Swiss companions who had summited the Sefinenfurgge Pass ahead of us.  We learnt from them about the Via Alpina - a network of five long distance hiking trails which run across the alpine regions of Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Liechenstein, Switzerland, Italy, France and Monaco.  Altogether the route covers 5,000 kms.  Unwittingly, during this holiday we have already covered several stages in the Swiss section.  Another bite of the Via Alpina September 2014 - any takers??!