GRINDELWALD TO WENGEN - WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN!

I rose rather gingerly this morning, completing a mental check list as I put my feet to the floor - feet (fine), shins (fine), knees etc., and was relieved to find that everything was in good working order and good to go!  A niggle or a strain at this early stage would be too boring for words.  We were determined to get away punctually this morning as we had a big day ahead, with a planned itinerary of 18.5 kms or 7 hours walking. We were out of the hotel door by 8.15am and beginning what was to be a long ascent out of Grindelwald. The going underfoot was very easy in comparison to yesterday, with very straight forward paths and farm tracks to follow, but the downside was that there was no let up to the relentless climbing.  We basically were ascending for the entire 9 kms to our destination of Kleine Scheidegg, contouring around the base of the north face of the Eiger.  The views back towards Grindelwald were lovely, with sweeping views up the valley towards First, our starting point for yesterday's hike.

We made our way through small farms and again I was able to enjoy the gently soothing sounds of cow bells which accompanied our walk for much of the way, finally stopping at Alpiglen for some much needed refreshment.  It seemed ironic that yesterday we were stocking up on woolly gloves and adding extra layers into our rucksacks, and today we were absolutely sweltering.  We looked such amateurs compared to some of the Nordic walkers who glided past us, dressed in hi-tech hiking gear and making it all look so irritatingly easy! There we were, in our cotton shorts, faces pouring with sweat, and plodding painfully along.

It was that kind of morning - every way a climb.

A much needed drink and my new tipple - Mountain Twister - apfellimonade with non-alcoholic beer - delicious!

From our welcome 20 minute break at Alpiglen, we were quickly climbing once again, past delightful wooden cow barns where milk churns were lined up in neat rows.  We learnt yesterday that many of these small Swiss farmers produce their own cheese, so I suppose quite apart from the almost impossible logistics of milk transportation from these remote areas, the milk doesn't ever have to leave the farm.

We had hoped to reach Kleine Scheidegg for lunch, and were making very good time to arrive at midday.   Kleine Scheidegg is the start point for the Jungfrau Railway which began construction in 1896, finally reaching completion in 1912 at a vast cost of 16 million Swiss Francs, twice the estimated cost.  The brainchild of a Swiss industrialist who saw the benefit of making the Jungfrau accessible to all, the railway involved blasting a tunnel through the rock of the Eiger and Monch mountains to construct a cogwheel railway to the Jungfrau summit.  If today's carriages loaded with tourists (80% Japanese!) is anything to go by, his vision has been fulfilled, and after a quick assessment of the weather conditions (almost ideal), we decided to lash out on what is probably the most expensive rail ticket in the world!  A 50 minute rail journey took us to what is now a sophisticated tourist destination with viewing platforms, restaurants, "Ice Palace" and snow-sport playground, all at 3454 metres!  Having walked up from Grindelwald at 1034 metres, we had ascended 2500 metres in just over four hours.  With a further three hour walk ahead of us to Wengen, we couldn't stay at the Yungfrauyoch for long, which was probably just as well as we were soon experiencing the effects of a sudden increase in altitude.   However, we were able to stand on the viewing deck, and appreciate the majesty of summits such as the Monch and the Yungfrau at relatively close quarters.

The summit of the Yungfrau under the disdainful eye of a visitor who makes the ascent so effortlessly

Fantastic views from Yungfraujoch

 Back in Kleine Scheidegg and the place was humming as it was the finishing point for the world renowned Yungfrau Marathon.  Hundreds of flag-waving, horn-blowing enthusiasts and friends were lining the route to meet the successful finalists of this unbelievably gruelling event, which soon put out meagre efforts of plodding up from Grindelwald into perspective!   Thoughts of a reviving hot chocolate were quickly put aside in the melee of returning runners, their supporters and tourists all converging at once, and it was with relief we beat a hasty exit onto the path towards Wengen when once again the cows were our only company, but not for long!  The event attracts literally thousands of competitors and little did we know that our path to Wengen formed part of the marathon route!  What entailed was a glimpse into what must be one of the most beautiful and at the same time taxing marathon events in the world.  Horn blowers, flag wavers and enthusiastic throngs of well wishers saw home the exhausted looking "runners" - most of whom were now plodding in agonised silence the last few kilometres to the end some three hours after the first finalists. Making our way against this tide of exhausted humanity was difficult and we retreated "off piste" which made the first couple of kilometres very slow going.  However, once the last of the marathon competitors had hobbled their way past us, we were able to pick up the pace, and I was struck by how walking can make you aware of sensations in a way that other forms of travel simply don't provide.  A little over an hour before I had been squinting in the blinding snowy whiteness of a pristine mountainside, in the thin cold air of Europe's highest summit, and now I was distinctly aware of how warm the air was around my legs, humming with bumble bees and chirriping with crickets as we crossed meadowland once again.  

Don't panic - I won't bring one home with me - but I do love them!
You can just see our destination, Wengen, in the background.

Marathon running - Swiss style

Soon after this we were following a fast flowing river, with the mountains looming over us, and the spasmodic thundering of avalanches reaching us as we made our way further down into the treeline and on towards Wengen.

Fuelling up on the nectar that is mountain water straight from the stream

It has been a huge day, and to be honest I am quite exhausted!  However, we are thrilled to have managed to have been able to enjoy the Yungfrau and looking forward to a shorter day tomorrow as we make our way towards Murren.  

I'll say goodnight and leave you with the sound of Switzerland!!