AROUND ADELBODEN

Adelboden is enchanting, and made even more so this morning when the sound of what seemed like half a dozen churches ringing their bells all at once had me rushing to our balcony.  As the cacophany of bell ringing grew ever closer, finally the wonderful sight appeared on the road below of cows being driven down from the mountain sides to a local "Alpler-Markt" - a kind of fete at the end of the season where the farmers show off their wonderful beasts and sell their cheese and produce.  Each cow, apart from being the bearer of a collar and bell of all different shapes and sizes, wore a decorated brow band of alpine flowers.  It was a glorious sight and a great start to the day.

We had decided on an easy day and made our way by bus and cable car up to Engstligenfalle.  This is one of Switzerland's largest mountain plateaus and on a sunny Saturday, a veritable playground for the Swiss.   We had a view of the soaring Engstligenfalle Waterfall as we left the cable car, before taking an easy one and a half hour walk around this extraordinary plateau, marvelling at the jewelled crown of mountain peaks she was proudly wearing, shown off to perfection on this day of perfect September sunshine.

The impressive Engstligenfalle Waterfall

Anthony had brought his binoculars, and when he wasn't "spying" for chamois, enjoyed watching the ant-like progress of hikers, tackling various slopes and ridges which towered over us.  However, the most extraordinary thing about Engstligenfalle is that for certain months of the year it is the home to what must be one of the world's most unusual golf courses!

Golf anyone?  At 2,000 metres the Engstligenfalle plateau is the most extraordinary setting for a golf course.

Milk churns have many uses in Switzerland!

The view down the fairway!

It was a day of surreal experiences, and we were to have another as we re-boarded the cable car for the return journey to Adelboden to share it with two dead chamois!  A truly rugged looking Swiss huntsman was returning to the valley with his trophies, transported in a hand card, carefully laid together under his coat with their heads entwined together as if sleeping, and their mouths full of herbs and flowers, which I can only assume is some sort of mountain custom.  One of the other passengers in the cable car translated that this man had been stalking for a week to finally gain his prize.  Looking at the terrain over which this stalk must have taken place, he was fully deserving of his bounty.

A truly restful day will stand us in good stead for the hiking ahead - two 7 hour days in succession, the first being our hike south-west from Adelboden towards Lenk tomorrow, via the summit of Sillerebuel (1,972 metres) and Hahnenmoospass at  1,950 metres.  We have both vowed to return to Adelboden one day and explore the web of wonderful hiking paths which are on her doorstep.

KANDERSTEG TO ADELBODEN

We couldn't believe our good fortune as we made an early departure from Kandersteg under the blessing of a clear blue sky.  It has been touch and go whether the Bunderchrinde Pass at 2,385 metres would be open after the snow earlier in the week, but the previous two days had been mild, with no further snow, and we were good to go.  Kandersteg boasts 40 kms of cross country skiing trails, a huge drawcard in the winter, and it was on one of these meandering paths that we left the town, winding our way alongside a fast flowing river Kander towards the base of the Grosser Lohner cliffs which loom over the valley like stern sentinels.   The sun had yet to reach the valley bottom, and my fingers were already being bitten with cold, but I knew that in a short while we would become warm enough tackling the inevitable ascent out of the Kander Valley.

Our route cut a straight line across a series of switchbacks in the road, heading straight up through woods and eventually following beside a rowdy cascade before peeling off and heading across more peaceful alpine meadows.  With a cumulative 1,350 metre ascent, there was little respite from climbing, although the reward was wonderful views across the classic glacial valley of Gasterntal, and towards the beautiful lake of Oeschinensee where we had enjoyed our sun drenched lunch just a couple of day's before.

The beautiful blue Oeschinensee in the distance

Check and double check - with a day of constantly climbing we didn't want to get it wrong!

Anthony was in top form, and heading up the slopes like a mountain goat!  I just couldn't get into the rhythm of climbing the rocky and in some places boulder strewn path, and reached a small section where the path contoured around the side of the mountain with relief.  Finally I could pick up my pace and get into my stride. We found a sun-facing boulder on which to perch and enjoy our sandwich, refuelling for what we could see was going to be an arduous climb ahead.

Finally the grassy saddle on a ridge above came into view, which looked harmless enough, until we realised that this wasn't our destination.  Instead we had to switch back and cross for 500 metres across a large area of scree rising steeply towards a narrow gap in a craggy ridge.  The path on the scree was barely discernible, our reassuring red/white daubs of paint which mark the way suddenly not visible.  The only tell tale sign of a path existing at all across this inhospitable slope was the tell tale ribbon of white left behind by the recent snow.  Walking on scree is exhausting - like walking on a shingly beach but on a 1:3 slope!  It was a huge relief to finally reach the summit and even the prospect of the unavoidable descent couldn't take away from the joy of reaching our goal, and the enjoyment of the stunning views back towards Kandersteg on one side and down to our destination of Adelboden on the other.

Made it!  Reaching the Bunderchrinde Pass after an arduous morning of constantly climbing

The Bunderchrinde Pass - only a 3 hour descent to go!

The view from the Pass down to Adelboden

Unlike the Seffinenfurgge Pass, the descent from Bunderchrinde didn't offer the assistance of steps cut into the scree, and I will have to be very honest and admit that I absolutely hated it!  Taking tiny mincing steps, my knee raging in protest at every slip and slide, all I could do was manage each little section a piece at a time, and try not to think about Anthony disappearing down the slope ahead of me with irritating ease!

Two other hikers just visible descending the scree slope behind us

The cup shape pass visible from the meadows below

Finally the gradient began to ease, and then at last the scree turned into alpine meadow, and the path way ahead became clearer and easier.  Sensing an imminent sense of humour failure (!), very sensibly Anthony realised a pit-stop was in order and we stopped at a mountain hut in the nick of time!  Boots and socks off, a drink and some good mountain food, and soon all was well again as we sat outside with the beautiful mountains above us and the green meadows around us bathed in sunshine.

A lucky break - a well timed rest stop!

It was a real effort to drag ourselves away, but we still had over an hour of descending ahead to reach Adelboden.  As always the last leg is often the most tedious.  You have seen where you are heading, and yet you never seem to be able to reach it!  We zigzagged down to Adelboden on a combination of woodland paths and farm roads, with a final sting in the tail of arriving in Adelboden at the bottom of the town, and of course where was our hotel? At the top!  Another half hour of solidly climbing up a road and finally we were there.  The Adler Hotel was a real treat, our room opening out onto a balcony with stunning views up to the mountain tops, austere but beautiful in the late afternoon sunshine.

Through the fringe of trees and back amongst green meadows above Adelboden

Stunning views in very direction from our hotel balcony .........

and the perfect home for smelly boots!!